Silverbank Caravan Club Site, Banchory, Kincardineshire

Despite the overnight rain, we woke to bright skies and the promise of better weather to come; a good “castle” day. Given that the first of our destinations was not to open until 10 am, or more accurately half an hour later, we spent the earlier part of our morning more relaxed than usual. I decided I would walk along to the Tesco Extra to buy the daily newspaper and find a red box to post a letter. The latter task proved to be a challenge, although it would not have been had I not been on foot. The sales assistant gave me good advice, but obviously thought I was setting off on four wheels; the roundabout “just up the road” was some distance, and then when I did eventually arrive and do the business, I was unsure whether I should retrace my steps or press on using my nose as navigator. After two little detours through pine woods, and consultion with two sets of locals, I did eventually find my way back to the caravan park. Chris said I should not be let loose on my own; however I did feel well satisfied with my morning constitutional. 

We arrived early at Crathes Castle just two miles to the east of our camp but made good use of the time by setting off on foot into the woods, crossing brooks and bogs, encountering highland cattle but not the elusive red squirrel. We stopped a dog walker and quizzed her about these elusive critters; she told us that they were indeed about, but tended to go into hiding after 9 am, while the tourists and dog walkers were about. 

Crathes Castle is another of the National Trust of Scotland’s properties, this a sixteenth century thick walled granite tower house with extensions of later centuries attached. Robert the Bruce gave the land to the Burnetts of Leys in 1323, but it was not until 1553 that they commenced construction of the Castle on the spot it sits today. It was finally completed in 1596 by Alexander Burnett, the 12^th Laird of Leys and an additional wing added in the 18^th century. I think it was he and his wife who had twenty one children; certainly it was this prolific breeder who was responsible for one episode of extension.

It was the 13^th Baronet or Laird of Leys, Sir James Burnett who gave the property, which included 398 acres of woodland along with a considerable amount of agricultural land intended to fund the property for the next fifty years, to the National Trust in 1951, a gift that proved to be a massive burden just within years. In 1953 there was a horrendous storm through the area, and 251 acres of the woodland was destroyed.

Then in 1966 a fire damaged portions of the castle, principally the “newer’ extension. No-one was hurt but many of the castle treasures were lost or damaged. The Trust rebuilt the wing to a two story height in the 1970s, the Victorian extension was never rebuilt.

The castle was a pleasure to explore, but better still are the stunning gardens. While there have been gardens here in one shape or form for many centuries, the current version was developed in the late 1920s by Sir James and Lady Sybil Burnett, the last of the Burnetts to reside here. There are some pretty amazing topiaried yews here, some of them reputedly 250 years old. Both Chris and I agreed they were among the very best gardens we have visited here in the United Kingdom.

We lunched in the grounds, seated at one of the several picnic tables at the edge of the woods, before heading another further six miles east to Drum Castle, yet another of the National Trust of Scotland’s properties.

This Castle has been home to the Irvine family for twenty four generations spanning seven centuries. The original 13^th century tower and its grounds were granted to William de Irwyn in 1325 by Robert the Bruce, and remained in the family right through to 1975 when it was given to the Trust, by David Irvine, the 26^th Laird of Drum. Like Crathe Castle, it has undergone extension and alteration, but the tower house, believed to be one of the three oldest tower houses in Scotland, is very little altered from the original.

On arrival we were told the next tour was in forty minutes, so we set off with courtesy National Trust umbrellas which we were so glad to have, down to the Garden of Historic Roses, laid out in quarters, each representing the centuries from the 17^th through to the 20^th. Alas we had been spoilt by our visit to Crathes earlier in the day, but had we not been so, we would have found these delightful. As it was we were a little critical and I thought they would be improved by a visit from my parents who are ace dead headers of roses.

We returned in time for our tour and were expertly guided through the castle, enjoying every facet of the tour. The final stage was a self guided wander through an upper floor given over to a gallery. We learned that the Aberdeen Art Gallery, one which our guide book praised to the hilt but is apparently closed for renovation and has been for over two years, has farmed out much of its collection, and here at Drum is an exhibition of impressive photos by American photo journalist Harry Benson, here until early December. We thought it quite brilliant, even those of Donald Trump and his sexy model wife Melania, and a series of Presidents through the decades of our lifetime. There is so much more here and much to recommend.

Emerging into the late afternoon, more rain threatening but visibility still good; we climbed to the top of the ancient tower and looked out over the estate and down into the courtyard far below. After checking out the modest chapel, we headed home, arriving as another heavy shower came over.