We travelled
eastwards on the same route as yesterday afternoon, soon passing Eilean Donan,
crossing the bridge over the end of Loch Long, and onwards toward Kyle of
Lochalsh. Having learned that this larger settlement boasted a Co-op
superstore, I had hoped we might stop there to stock up on our already depleting
fresh produce, however as we approached Balmacara further along the shore of
Loch Alsh and spied the SPAR store opposite a well appointed parking spot, we
decided it more prudent to shop here, rather than risk the possibility there
was no turning or parking space at the Co-op, a decision which turned out to be
very wise indeed. And in such a lovely spot, it made sense to remain parked up
there until after an early lunch before proceeding to our next camp.
Five miles or so up the east coast of the Isle of Skye on roads better than we had driven for some weeks, or even months, we arrived at this little Camping and Caravan Club casual camping site. We soon set up, quicker that usual because the power was out for the area until later in the afternoon. This meant we were unable to fill the hot water tank, tune in the television, or open the taped up fridge, and so much more.
I had set a
few options for the afternoon’s entertainment in front of Chris this morning,
accepting that he might instead prefer to fudge out as we so often do after
travelling from one camp to the next, and so was delightfully surprised when he
suggested we head for Applecross, forty six miles away. This might have been
part of our NC500 tour had we not settled for a less adventurous route, and it
was the one area I had really been disappointed to miss.
So we headed
back over the bridge to the mainland, then back past Balmacara where we had hung
out through the morning, soon turning north onto the A890, crossing over an
elevated peninsula and down to the north eastern reaches of Loch Carron, much
on a single lane road and through the sort of concrete tunnels that one sees in
the Swiss Alps or on Arthur’s Pass in New Zealand. Reaching the end of the
loch, we then turned onto the A896 toward the charming lochside village of
Lochcarron, then turning west across the Wester Ross Peninsula, coming down
again to sea level as we reached Loch Kishorn.
This Loch is
very deep and was selected as a North Sea Oil yard, which is curious given it
is on the west coast and we understood all the oil extraction to be happening
on the east coast. In 1975 a large dry dock and construction site to build oil
platforms was opened here. In 1977, three thousand were employed on the site
and were accommodated on two old liners anchored in the loch.
The 600,000
tonne Ninian Central Platform was floated out in 1978, remaining the largest
floating and moveable structure so far created. By 1984 demand for huge oil
platforms had dwindled and the site closed in 1987. The dry dock was used to
build the footings for the Skye Bridge in 1992, but is now derelict.
From here the
road rises severely, a road which most drivers are warned against taking. This
is the Parliamentary Road over Bealach na Ba, or the Pass of the Cattle, was
completed in 1822, but was not sealed until the 1950s. This fact is offered
almost as an apology, which seems rather strange to those coming from New
Zealand where about one third of the roads are still only gravel. It is not
advised for “Learner Drivers, very large Vehicles or Caravans after the first
mile” ; all very sage advice.
However none
of this deters the tourists in motorhomes or hire cars, and the others such as
us, all playing chicken on the stretches between the passing places. The road
has hideously rough drop-offs, not the kind to create accidents, but the sort
to destroy tyres and wheel alignment, so it is imperative that one stays on the
sealed part of the road. That section rising from Kishorn is very steep and
offers the most spectacular views as it climbs through a series of hairpin
bends, then crosses a more level section
at the summit from where one has wonderful views across to Skye, up to the
Western Isles and all about. 
Then the road descends across the moorlike
Applecross Peninsula, down to the loch shore village of Applecross where dozens
of tourist parties were already parked up, some enjoying a meal or snack at the
Applecross Inn, and others enjoying fare of a more takeaway nature from the
Airstream caravan parked on the shore. Here one can buy icecreams at three
times the price of those we were to buy a little later back at Lochcarron, but
with a captive market and such beautiful views, there is nothing like
indulgence in such a paradise.
From here one
can continue north up the eastern shore of the Inner Sound, and around Rudha na
Fearn into Loch Torridon, finally reconnecting with the A896. Chris admitted to
giving a moments thought to following this route back home, but decided that
with the afternoon pushing on and the extra distance, we were best to head back
the way we had come. I was well satisfied with that.
As we had
passed through Kyle of Lochalsh on the way out, Chris’s phone had pinged with a
text; a message from his brother to phone him as soon as possible regarding a
parking fine, so while we were enjoying our icecreams beside Loch Carron,
finding we had cellphone reception, Chris phoned John back. An
infringement notice had arrived regarding overstayed parking at the Kinross
Service Centre and of course was in John’s name, because both the vehicle and
caravan are in his name to facilitate insurance and like bureaucracy. We
admitted to expecting the arrival of this mail, having learned after a two hour
spell, when popping to the toilet before leaving the Service Centre, that there
was any time restriction. For this oversight, we could pay £60 immediately, or escalating charges if we
delayed. We instructed him to go ahead and settle it now, and we would sort him
out later. Chris did add that had it been in our own name, he would have argued
our case; being foreign tourists and not having been able to see any sign until
it was too late. Quite frankly I was glad we were not going to go into battle
yet again; my husband is a man of such principle. 
As we neared
Kyle of Lochalsh, the third time along the stretch of road today, we pulled
over and took advantage of the lack of parked tourists to enjoyed the view and
take the obligatory photos. Soon after arriving at our camp, the power came on
and we finished setting up and settling in for the evening.
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