13 August 2017: - While last night’s skies did
not clear to expose the meteor display promised by the media, the odd
atmospheric conditions provided an unexpected opportunity for limited communication
on Messenger with both my sons. While it was a delight to catch up with both, it
was particularly special to be able to wish my youngest a happy birthday. My
disappointment at missing the astrological phenomena was over shadowed by my
joy of chatting, albeit by text, with my sons.
The morning arrived bathed in
sunshine, although the inevitable showers splattered the day. Is it truly
possible for a whole day to remain sunny and dry here in Scotland? We have yet
to find out. Actually our guide book quotes comedian Billy Connelly as defining
Scotland’s climate as having two seasons; June and winter, and while this would
not entirely fit with our own experience, I suspect the weather conditions can
be more accurately described as “a little wet, or totally wet”. I do hope I
shall be proved incorrect, time will tell.
We were expecting a better day today, and I
had organised our third tikki tour to fill this, our last and final day touring
out into the countryside from our camp here at Culloden Moor. Despite rising a
little late, we were off before 9.30 am, heading south west down the northern
shore of Loch Ness.
Our first stop was at the last
lock on the Caledonian Canal before the famous Loch Ness, home to the elusive
and mythical monster. Here at Dochgarroch Lock, one can board a tour vessel and
go monster hunting oneself, or alternatively motor down to Castle Urquhart at
Dumnadrocht, about half way down the loch. Loch Ness is twenty three miles
long, 227 metres at its deepest measured point, which given that the water
level of the Loch is only 15.5 metres ASL, means the bottom of the Loch is far
below sea level.
The A82 which follows the shore
down from Inverness all the way through toward Fort William is an excellent
road, two lanes and as good a surface as any Scottish road offers, which
actually is not great. Today, even at this relatively early hour, and a Sunday
to boot, there was a lot of traffic. This is one of the main tourist routes,
and whether it is a Sunday, Monday, Wednesday or whatever, has little bearing
as to the traffic congestion. There are numerous parking spots along the lake
edge for the traveller to pull over and enjoy views of the loch, often screened
by vegetation but few passing places for the slow driver heading in the
opposite direction back toward Inverness.
We had come near to Drumnadocht
a few days ago as we travelled down Glen Urquart, but turned up over the hills
between Loch Ness and the Beauty Firth. Today we drove slowly through the
pleasant little settlement of Drumnadocht which is tucked back in a bay, and
seemed to be worth a look if traffic and parking had allowed. Here are a couple
of tourist attractions all about the Loch Ness Monster, one more geared toward
families and children, the other attempting to take a more serious analysis of
the matter, both charging more than we could be bothered to pay. I guess this
is one of those places that if you are hanging about for a few weeks and
wondering what to do next, you would seriously consider visiting one of the
centres, and no doubt really enjoy it, but we had other fish to fry today.
We had noted that Castle
Urquart was a Scottish Heritage attraction and anything free always attracts
our attention; however we had not done enough research to understand that this
is one of the most popular Highland castles for tourists. Worse still, a couple
of cruise ships had anchored within coo-ee of the region and busloads of
passengers were already pouring in from Invergordon to here at Loch Ness.
Arriving at the entrance to the
castle, we noted a sign showing that it was already full, but it was too late
to turn back. The marshal suggested we carry on, that there were people already
leaving and we might be lucky to score a free spot. There was little option
because we were already behind a stream of vehicles hoping for the same, and
behind us there were at least half a dozen more. Progress was at snail pace,
and The Chauffeur was frustrated to say the least. I would have fully supported
a decision to continue on around and leave without a visit, an option he was
very seriously considering. However we were lucky enough to spot a party
leaving and took their park before anyone else could squeeze in. And with that
we joined the crowds queuing for tickets, toilets and every feature of the
venue.
The 13th century ruined loch-side
Castle Urquhart was built as a strategic base to guard the Great Glen. The
castle was taken by Edward I of England in 1296 and later held by Robert the
Bruce against Edward III.
But like many of these historical
structures, there were earlier settlements with more modest stories. Vitrified
stones offer evidence that there could possibly have been ramparts of a defence
structure as early as AD 580. In the early 1200s, Alan Durward, King Alexander
II’s right hand man, built a castle on top of the hill fort, which served as
the foundations for those that came after.
The castle was handed over to the Grants,
those whose lands included great swathes in the Cairngorms Mountains which we
travelled through several days ago. It was under Grant Clan ownership that in
1692 it was blown up to prevent it from falling into Jacobite hands. By this
time, the castle was too antiquated to serve as a noble residence and was
abandoned to its fate, never to be attacked again.
During the following centuries, locals
plundered the castle for building materials, ten tonnes of lead from the roofs
stolen and found in cottages and barns in 1717. The stonework was robbed,
leaving great gaps in the architectural story, not helped by a paucity of
written history. Between 1912 and 1922, after the castle passed into State
care, the ruins were cleared of rubble and crumbling walls were consolidated.
While well-intentioned, this work removed important clues to the castle’s past
and the shape and purpose of many of its building.
We moved with the crowds from one part of
the castle to another, caught in each other’s photos and made our way down to
the loch shore to check whether swimming was an option, even risking our safety
with the mythical monster lurking somewhere out there. The Grant Tower was a
favourite with most of the tourists but the queues were extra-long here and we
decided to give that a miss.
Despite the hideous crowds, one cannot deny
that the castle is truly in a most picturesque spot on the loch shore, and
Heritage Scotland had spent considerable money in making this a wonderful
tourist experience. The exhibitions, the short film and the access to various
spots about the site are faultless; I would simply suggest one visits in late
summer and on a day there are no cruise ships within several hundred miles.
The crowds were reminiscent of those at
Edinburgh Castle, or the Tower of London, and those, according to recent
reports in the newspaper, on the roads and at the tourist sites on the Isle of
Skye. This latter has made us question further our plans to visit that fair isle
when we travel south again within the next ten days.
We pulled into a layby further along the
road to lunch, glad for the peace and quiet, then pressed on through
Invermoriston, at the mouth of the River Moriston as it arrives at Loch Ness.
On we went until we arrived at the far southern end of the Loch, at Fort
Augustus, which was also buzzing with hordes of tourists. We found a car park
beyond the township, and walked back in to the Caledonian Canal, the section
that links Loch Ness to Loch Oich, an alternative to the non-navigable River
Oich. The flight of five locks at Fort Augustus transfers vessels from Loch
Ness at the 15.5 metres ASL to Loch Oich at 32 metres ASL. Each lock can raise
or lower vessel 2.4 metres.
We walked up past the lock system and admired
the views back down toward Loch Ness, then descended to the lake level and
walked up to the start of the canal. A piper was entertaining the many tourists
gathered about; I only hope they were throwing their loose change into his box
set out for such offerings. He was an improvement on the young chap in the
square at Aberdeen and looked much more the part.
After Chris had checked out the quality of
the local hot chips, and approved thereof, we set off back toward Inverness,
but this time along the eastern shore of the Loch, a much more tranquil and
scenic route, mainly on minor one-lane roads. The route rose high up into the
mountains, passing small lochs, across moorland barren but for the heather and
a few black faced sheep. The roads across these remote landscapes were built as
military roads in the 1700s and served to open up the countryside.
We paused at a summit of 400 metres ASL to
appreciate the view, but not the cold wind, before slowly making our way back
down toward the shore, first stopping at the very small settlement of Foyers.
Here we visited a waterfall which once inspired Robbie Burns to wax lyrical,
and others to marvel and fear the force of the water and contour of the land.
Today the falls have given up some of their drama to create hydro-electricity.
Until 1967 the energy created was used to produce aluminium, bringing hundreds
of jobs to the area. It now supplies town and cities with electricity.
Proposals to build the smelter in such a beautiful spot triggered a furious debate, typical of the NIMBY mentality that pops up here and there, then and now. In the first campaign against hydro-electricity, those protesting about “this outrageous act of vandalism” claimed that vegetation for miles would be destroyed and the Falls would dry up. Local supporters welcomed new jobs for a poor crofting community. Today I was unable to detect anything but the picturesque waterfall, and the good trade the café at the top of the hill was doing catering to the visitors. Chris and I enjoyed our ice-creams sitting in the sunshine on the terrace, or at least did until the wasps became bothersome.
And speaking of insects, I have been
scratching my neck and face and ears for two days now, having been attacked by
Scotland’s own special midges when we were up in Glen Affric. I have until now
kept myself well wrapped up; long trousers, socks, long sleeved shirts or
jumpers. It seems that the new bug veils will have to be put to use sooner than
later.
The last part of our trip back to Inverness
was a pleasant one, following the loch side, the traffic and tourists less here
than on the other side. We called by the Tesco Superstore to replenish our
grocery stores and the diesel tank, and are in theory ready for a prompt get
away tomorrow as we head for the top.
Today’s road-kill tally: One intact red
squirrel, very tragic indeed.
No comments:
Post a Comment