We had set today aside for a tour of the Moors, the weather
reports suggesting it to be the best day for sightseeing. Certainly the sun was
shining and blue directly above through the caravan skylights, but outside the
views out to sea were very hazy. We set off with lunch packed in the eski and
hope that the wind would clear the skies.
We took the A169 directly south of Whitby; the inland route rather
than that around the coastline. Leaving the A171, the road drops steeply down
to the River Esk, then up the southern riverbank to the very pleasant village
of Sleight. Continuing on, we climbed up onto the North York Moors, through the
National Park which like most such parks is a mix of farmland, residential
housing and wide open spaces for conservation and leisure.
The North York Moors National Park established in 1952, covers an
area of 1,436 square kilometres, the highest point Urra Moor at 454 metres ASL
and the lowest point at the bottom of the Boulby Potash Mine, 1,100 metres deep
making it one of the deepest mines in Europe.
As we crossed the purple heather clad heights of the moor, we were
disappointed to find the haze obscured the more distant views. We recalled last
year when we had driven across the Yorkshire Dales, the views then had been
obscured by heavy mist and light rain. We just hoped that today would be a
better experience.
To the east as we continued on, we noted a very strange structure
rising above the moor, and wondered what on earth it could be. The discreet
sign at the turn off offered some explanation and the security gate a little up
that side road confirmed that this was a military installation. A little
further research later revealed this to be a Royal Air Forces radar base, part
of a ballistic Missile Early Warning System completed and manned since
1963.
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| Pickering Castle |
We were a little early for the opening time of 10am but hung about
until the staff opened the heavy entry door. Twenty minutes was long enough for
us to wander about the entire castle complex, because there is little left
intact, but for all that, it is impressive, just not impressive enough to pay
the entry fee if you are not a card carrying member. The Castle was apparently
used by every English monarch up to 1400 as a base for hunting in nearby
Blandsby Park, however it was built around 1070 with purely fortification in
mind because those were the days of the wild tribes of the north, of whom some
of my own ancestors were part.
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| A sample of the wall painting |
Between 1180 and 1326, successive kings strengthened the castle, replacing
wooden fortifications with stone wall and towers, Great Halls and chapels. In
the 17th century the chapel was used as a courthouse after the great
hall had become a ruin.
Down in the town we easily found a park on the street and walked
up and down checking out all that was on offer. Here there were at least three
bakeries, and many cafes, all to cater for the tourists who arrive on the North
Yorkshire Railway that runs between here and Grosmont eighteen miles to the
north, where we were to call later in the day.
We wandered up a narrow ally to the church and found Pickering’s
treasure; St Peter & St Paul’s Parish Church. This early Norman structure,
rebuilt over the original Saxon church in 1140 is an impressive enough
building, but it is the walls seen on entering that take your breath away. Here
are the most complete sets of medieval wall paintings in Britain, probably
first commissioned in 1450 and painted in the following decade. Amazingly they
were covered over one hundred years later, seen as unseemly by the new less
flamboyant Protestant religious powers.
The paintings were first accidentally rediscovered in 1852, during
renovations, when a thick coat of plaster was removed from the nave walls. Many
folk came to see the frescos, but they were soon again covered by a heavy coat
of whitewash, as they were deemed to be too much of a distraction from the
vicar’s sermon.
Then in 1876 during further renovations, they were uncovered once
more and have been nurtured ever since. Certainly there are Christian themes
portrayed here, but they are not quite as stuffy as you find elsewhere. We were
enthralled as you will have guessed and soon fell into conversation with a
local woman who told us all about them, and took it upon herself to plan our
itinerary for the next part of the day, assuming only partly correctly that we
were searching out interesting old churches.
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| The Lealholm crypt |
As we drove through Appleton-le-Moor, we had to dodge the sheep
who hung about the residents’ gateways and all over the road. The road on to
Lastingham dropped down into a little valley and we pulled up near the church,
here the sheep keeping more to the grassy hills than the “urban” space.
St Mary’s Church dates back to about the year 654 AD, when St Cedd
of Lindisfarne founded it as a Celtic monastery. The existing church was begun
in the year 1078. Here is a unique Norman crypt, which includes parts of the
first stone church built here. We found the interior of the church was dark
and un-inviting , but were fascinated with the crypt which we entered down a
staircase just inside the church entry. Unlike most crypts which are wholly
underground, this does have a window above the altar which offers some light.
Other tourists arrived which prompted our departure and we drove
on toward the next village, stopping beside another creek with pleasing rural
views and a big enough space to be well off the road. As we were finishing our
lunch, we noticed a paddock of sheep being mustered, and no sooner had I
stepped out of the car to check this further, than the mob rushed past
us with great purpose, the shepherd armed with an old fashioned crook and a
strange coloured sheep dog left far behind. In fact they did not bother to
follow at all, so I can only suppose that a gate was open somewhere behind us
and the sheep knew exactly where they were going.
It was not far on to Hutton-le-Hole, which warrants a mention in
our Rough Guide although mainly as a reference point to other places of
interest hereabouts. Rather than park in the Pay & Display area at some
distance from the manicured village, we drove up and down the street, noting
the few pubs and tearooms, all busy with tourists, and the beautifully mown
green areas around the creek that runs through the village.
From here we travelled north, but not directly on the road marked
wide and white on our map, but took one of those narrow and white roads a
little to the west, descending down into wide Farndale, through Low Mill and
Church Houses, taking in the views of the splendid farmland nestling beneath
the higher heather covered moors. At one point we passed a threesome of older
folk standing knee deep in the heather emptying a bag with a grand gesture; the ashes of a past lover of this countryside were being cast out over his
favourite haunt, his final resting spot.
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| Views across the moors |
Soon we were climbing once more back up to the central route,
pausing at Blakey Ridge between Farndale and Rosedale, from where the 360
degree views were stupendous. In fact the day had improved no end, a squall
passing over soon after we left Pickering blowing the haze away. Now we could
see the sea to the north east and the moors west and east. The Lion Inn which sits remotely a little to the north of here,
soon passed as we proceeded on, stands at an elevation of 404 metres ASL; no
wonder the extensive views.
Further north, we descended into the upper Esk valley, passing
through Castleton and Danby, where we found The Moors Centre. Here again there
was a Pay & Display which required a minimum contribution of £2.50 although
entry to the National Park information centre was free. We probably spent an
hour here, absorbing the information made available by audio, video and
interpretation panels. We also enjoyed the art gallery which is attached to the
centre, then bought ice-creams (yet again) at the tea shop at the other end of
the row of stone buildings which were all part of the former shooting lodge.
Our plan had been to follow the River Esk downstream as far as the
road allowed, and this we did, criss-crossing the river, in a fashion that was
not unlike an orienteering car rally. We travelled via Lealholm, Glaisdale, and
Egton Bridge arriving at Grosmount just as the tourist steam engine was pulling
out of the station. The latter part of this leg had been achieved by fording
the River Esk; we stopped and quizzed some folk in their front garden when we
saw the road sign warn against proceeding on this very narrow lane. They
shrugged, looked at our 4x4 and said we might be okay. If it were too deep, we
should be able to reverse a short distance back to a turning into a farm, and
retrace our route. As it turned out, the river was only about seven or eight
inches deep, and the crossing was a cobbled ramp visible through the brackish
coloured water.
At Lealholme we had parked up and walked a short circuit past the
pub and residences, crossing the road bridge on foot, then back across on
stepping stones high above the water level.
From Grosmount, the road rose again steeply from the river, then
down again after passing through Sleights where we re-joined the A169, that
taken in the morning and thus completing a circle of exploration. Soon we were
back home again, most satisfied with our day and certainly delighted the
weather had turned out as forecasted after all.
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