9 August 2016 Lyons Farm, Melling, Kirkby, near Liverpool, Merseyside

Armed with some fore-knowledge, we set off soon after 9am for the Maghull railway station, found a park, but while manoeuvring into our tight little park, heard a noise we had identified previously as something else. A week or so ago, I had noted a graunching kind of noise when we were manoeuvring onto our caravan site. Chris took note and then I checked out caravan fixit-folk in the area to check the problem out. We were both of a mind that it was something to do with the hitch or braking system between the two units. Our time at Bury passed all too soon and we were on the road again soon, not having dealt with the problem, but still aware it did need attention. It was only today, separated from the caravan, that we realised that it had nothing to do with the towed unit. Parking the possible crisis in the back of our minds, we set off into the city on the train and in twenty minutes were alighting at Liverpool Central Station.

We came up out of the underground, unsure of which direction to head in, but soon spied a sign pointing the way to the “Rope Walks”, something I had listed on my bit of cardboard, but were soon distracted by the sight of an amazing building off to our left.

This turned out to be the Grand Central Hall, an amazing piece of architecture, but more so because of the copious amounts of plant life sprouting from various aspects of the roof structure, all boding badly for the longevity of the building.

We wandered in and around the interior, gobsmacked at the bizarre decoration, and the fact that this incredible building should be home to a collection of equally bizarre retail outlets, the kind where you might buy hippy apparel, incense or acquire a tattoo. Nothing jumped off the racks saying “Buy me” so we exited, but not before falling into conversation with a chap seated on a high stool, to all intents and purposes, the doorman. 

Grand Central Hall

Grand Central Hall was opened in 1904 as the Liverpool Wesleyan Mission. It was built to an art nouveau design by Bradshaw and Gass of Bolton, the new building having a capacity of 3,376 people, and was used from its opening until at least 1944 as the New Century Picture Hall cinema. From 1933 to 1939, the hall was the home of the Liverpool Philharmonic Orchestra while the orchestra’s true home was being rebuilt after a fire. In 1990 the Methodists sold the hall, and after major restoration work was undertaken in the late 1990s, it became home to the Barcelona Bar & Nightclub. 

For the last ten years, it has served as accommodation for these alternate shops as well as still providing a venue upstairs for performances from time to time. It is a Grade II listed building which came as no surprise.

Chris had picked a pamphlet out from the many left for his attention, relating to free walking tours on offer. We were not sure whether the tours were still running, so headed up to the historic St George’s Quarter to see if there was any indication of the tour happening at 11am as advertised. A small crowd of young pack-backer types was already gathering, evidence that everything was on track, and we hung about to join them.

Right on time, we were divided into two groups, those to go off with the Spanish speaking guide and those to stay with Sean, our own scouser. (Scouser is the term for a person from Liverpool, derived from the name of a stew which is part of the local cuisine). Our guide was a twenty three year old university graduate of history and english, a rather odd looking person who would have improved both his appearance and his demeanour if he had his long hair pulled off his face and tied in a ponytail, or alternatively had a good haircut, and eaten three square meals a day for a few months. 

St George's Hall Quarter

Despite these rather harsh comments regarding his physical appearance, he proved to be an excellent guide, with good diction (albeit with a scouse accent), a resonant voice and a very good grasp of local history. We, and twenty or thirty others, followed Sean about the streets, battling the cold cold winds, and dodging the occasional showers, around the cultural centre, the Beatles’ performance haunts, the old town and the docks, for two and a bit hours, drinking in the history and sights he was able to share with us. 

These walking tours are free, but a tip is encouraged and at the end, we noted that our own modest offering was dwarfed by the contributions of our fellow tourists. I suspect Sean has been unable to obtain a “proper” job, as do so many university graduates in the first instance, but in the meantime should be earning enough to keep him off the streets.

Speaking of which, we did not see so many homeless folk in the streets we walked through today; perhaps they frequent other places?

The fashionista author waiting for Guide Sean

After the tour, we sought a sheltered corner down on the docks to eat our lunch, then headed for the Tate Liverpool. We were looking forward to this, having visited both the Tate Modern and the Tate Britain last year when we were over, the latter particularly enjoyed. Today we were not at all impressed with the Tate Liverpool.

Emerging from this, finding wind-driven rain, I suggested we head to the Maritime Museum, but Chris was anxious that we try to sort the car out. We headed up through the city to the Central Station, getting quite wet in the process. I had dressed quite stupidly for the weather, wearing capri pants, a lightly quilted vest and sandals, when I should have been in jeans, jersey, socks and shoes and a heavy over-coat. I had commandeered a shower proof jacket belonging to Chris, sleeves that hung long over my wrists, and the hem, like a dress. I was definitely not a fashion icon today!

Grand buildings of Albert Dock

As we were leaving the Maghull railway station, we asked the chaps behind the counter if they could advise us of any mechanic located near the railway station. All three conferred, and decided that the only one within coo-ee of a station was one down in Aintree, two stops south of Maghull and home to the Grand National Steeplechase, brought to fame for me by Elizabeth Taylor in “National Velvet”. The acting stationmaster, Peter, rang the mechanic, father of his old school mate, and has arranged for us to take the vehicle there tomorrow morning. Hopefully the matter will turn out to be something trivial.

We hope to return to Liverpool city tomorrow to continue our exploration; however the mechanical woes will have to take precedence. But so far, we are most impressed with Liverpool, and speaking for myself, I far prefer Liverpool to Manchester.

Modern Liverpool’s growth began in the late 17^th and early 18^th centuries, with the West Indies sugar trade and the slave trade. The coming of the steamship in the 1840s made the port busier than ever. It became the terminal for the Cunard and White Star liners, and for merchant ships from all over the world, with seven miles of docks along its waterfront.

One of the largest tall ships of the world outside the Tate

From here emigrants for Australia, Canada and the USA left, including my great great grandparents, James and Jane Bevege, in 1859. It was here that thousands of Irish came, escaping the potato famines of the 1840s. 

By the middle of the last century, the docks had lost their importance, and the area was falling into decline. It was not until 2004 when the waterfront was granted UNESCO World Heritage status, that redevelopment began. Today we saw the modern buildings and the restored older structures, all of which make a most attractive tourist area, and form part of another important heritage area for the city. 

Hopefully when we return tomorrow or the next day, the sun will be shining, the winds will have died away and we will be even more impressed that we were today.