Partridge Cottage, Amisfield, Dumfries and Galloway

As I start this, we are awaiting the arrival of a violent storm, a storm named Aileen, the naming alone suggesting she means business. The rain has already started, but then we are used to that; it is the winds expected to reach 50 mph here, and so much more further south, that may keep me awake tonight. We have two touring days here near Dumfries, although I fear for the second, only in that driving out tomorrow may well be a waste of time.

However, today was a pleasant day, following the planned itinerary without hiccup. We started by heading to Dumfries’ Halfords, the British equivalent of Australasia’s Super Cheap Auto or Repco, but not so much the cheap, or with even half the range of stock. However we still managed to pick up the radiator fuel, engine oil and windscreen wash we sought. From here we headed south toward the Solway Firth, that body of water that cuts into the western side of the island, north of the Lakes District, and marking the western boundary between the two countries. 

In about 1220 Sir John Maxwell, Warden of the West March, ordered the construction of the first Caerlaverock Castle at the head of this tidal inlet on the Solway, one of the first stone castles to be built in Scotland. Unfortunately the site proved too soggy to support the castle, despite the drains and foundations. It was abandoned after starting to collapse and a new castle was started about two hundred metres to the north. Archeological research has found this to have occurred about 1277.

The second structure was a triangular moated castle first occupied by Sir Herbert de Maxwell, which was to be placed under seige just twenty three years on, by King Edward I of England. This was during the early years of the Wars of Independence. 

Herbert and his son, John, like many nobles of the time, had first sworn loyalty to Edward but as the reality of his overlordship dawned, they withdrew their allegiance. Galloway was particularly vulnerable as it was located on the Border between the two countries. Caerlaverock Castle was on Edward I’s route into Galloway and so became a target.

After James VI ascended to the English throne in 1603, the Border lords felt more secure from the threat of southern invasion. Changing building styles and fashions reflected this, becoming geared more toward luxury and elegance rather than defense. Thus it followed that in 1634 Robert Maxwell, the 1st Earl of Nithsdale, built the Nithsdale Lodging on the site, a veritable mansion with airy windows and intricate carvings, the height of contemporary fashion. He and his ancestors lived in this renovated castle for over three hundred and fifty years, and while the internal walls were altered, the walls retained their triangular layout.

Just as the castle had been besieged so soon after construction was completed, so it was again after the completion of the mansion;  the Protestant Covenanting army sacked and partially destroyed the castle in 1640 after a thirteen week long seige. The earl and his garrison of two hundred soldiers were only able to stand fast for that long because there was a reliable well within the castle walls. Despite the Reformation of 1560 the Maxwell family had remained devout Catholics.

Today with its wide moat, twin-towered gatehouse and lofty battlements, Caerlaverock Castle has become a popular filming location. And when it is not being used thus, it is open to the public, under the care and management of Historic Scotland.

Back on the road, we returned north toward Dumfries, but along the eastern bank of the Nith Estuary, much of the shoreline part of the Caerlaverock National Nature Reserve, which is best explored on the marked pathways rather than a wander down onto the sands and mud of the estuary. Along the roadside are warning signs for rapid tidal flows and quicksand.

Arriving in Dumfries we headed to the museum, reputedly to have excellent views over the town. It turned out the views are to be had from the Camera Obscura rather than the grounds of the museum, because even standing on a picnic bench, the views were limited to the rooftops of the homes between the museum and the river. Instead we spent some time wandering about the museum, finding it interesting but not memorable.

Parking is obviously a problem in Dumfries; the map shows many areas available and we found even more as we drove about the town for twenty minutes or so looking for a space, however there were none free to non-token holders. We eventually found parking at the Morrisons Superstore, free for a couple of hours, so after buying a few items to justify our presence, set off back into the centre on foot. We had already decided that Dumfries was a good looking town, and as we explored the centre, confirmed that opinion. The shopping and administration centre rise up from the river, the streets cleaner and more wheelchair or pushchair friendly than those in Glasgow. We bought a part for our vacuum cleaner and took the obligatory photos, before the first of the rain started and we made our way back to the car and so back to our camp here in the countryside.