Monday, 17 September 2018

Curran Caravan Park, Larne, County Antrim, Ulster

                             
Today’s outing was rather abbreviated, mainly because of the weather and partly because of the limited itinerary, the latter entirely my fault. But I did wonder too if we are subconsciously slowing down having been just too busy and worn ourselves out trying to see as much as possible of this beautiful country. Contrary to our style, Chris’s brother and his partner are also currently in Ireland, touring by car and staying in hotels. They arrived in Dublin seven days ago and are due to leave in a couple of days. Obviously they will have only seen a fraction of the countryside we have, and traveling out of a suitcase has its own stresses, but after a mere ten days or so, they will be able to put their feet up when they get home before thinking about their next touring holiday. Different strokes for different folks, but actually I wouldn’t mind a couple of days’ fudge out holiday myself, and perhaps that is why I am not deriding the fact we were home before 2 o’clock this afternoon.

Before we headed out of town this morning, I asked Chris to detour north along the A2 travelled yesterday just as far as the top of the hill above the town. I had hoped to gain a panoramic view over Larne, however our view from the little park was more to the east than the south. But we did see a large car ferry nearing the dock and a cargo ship further out. 

What we did not see was the power station which I had mentioned yesterday. I wrote that it was in Larne; it is not, and this should have been clear by its name alone, Ballylumford. Ballylumford is located on Islandmagee, the peninsula that reaches up from south of Larne, creating Larne Lough lying between Larne and the peninsula, hence the sheltered nature of the port. I am not sure of the distance across the Lough to Ballylumford from the Larne wharf but it could easily be reached in minutes by a water taxi. Perhaps that is how the Larne residents get to work there? 

After our little recci above Larne, we headed south west, down to county town Antrim, via the A8 we will travel tomorrow, the A57 and M2. Antrim has a population of about 20,000 and is situated on the banks of Six Mile Water, close to the eastern shore of Lough Neagh, the inland lake we visited about a week ago on the opposite shore. The Clotworthy family, later the Earls of Massereene, ousted the Irish back in the late 1600s and built secure military quarters here, later converting them to a castle. Little remains of that nowadays, it was burnt in 1912 and later demolished, however the gardens are still in place.

These and the walking path along the Six Mile Water are really Antrim town’s jewels because there is not a great lot else going for it. Perhaps that comes of having spent half our time there in the drizzly rain which does few towns any justice. And on the subject of the Six Mile Water, this is in fact a twenty mile long river which rises on the Antrim plateau near Larne.

However we did wander about the gardens; the large walled that has been refashioned into an old fashioned parterre with common garden flowers and looks wonderful even so late in the summer. We admired the many trees which offer refuge to grey squirrels and the parkland throughout that attracts the local morning dog walkers.

The pathway to the lough is wide and even, suitable for all, and even in the less than perfect weather, it was pleasant to see the yachts and other craft lined up along the far bank on their moorings. A couple of canoeists skimmed by and the waterfowl were plentiful.

However by the time we returned to the town, the rain had set in and we high-tailed it to the car, still with plenty of time left on our fair priced parking ticket. This was after popping into the Old Courthouse, built in 1726 for the sum of £150, and in operation until 1994. Nowadays, after recent restoration it houses a café, a theatre and the information centre where we picked up some brochures all about Belfast.

It was nearly lunchtime, but we decided we would find somewhere more salubrious to park up and dine. So we set off across to the east coast, via the M2 and the A8, turning onto minor roads through Mossley and attractive Greenisland , soon reaching Carrickfergus. 

This coastal town is County Antrim’s oldest town, and just eleven miles from Belfast has a population of a little under 30,000. I suspect there are many who commute into the city from here and there will be some who work in the power station just up the road at Kilroot.

We were interested to learn that the British peerage title of Baron of Carrickfergus, which had become extinct in 1883, was bestowed on Prince William on his wedding day. 

Apart from that fame, it is now a popular sailing centre and also had the honour of hosting the Rothman’s cigarette factory until the 1980s. Its closure would have been timely with the opening of Northern Ireland’s largest power station in 1981. Unlike the one near Larne, this is fired by coal and oil, hence the further use of superlatives is not incorrect. 

On a sunny day we might have parked in the large car park beside the castle there and paid to visit, but somehow “home” seemed a better option. However a little further along the A2 still within the boundaries of greater Carrickfergus, we pulled into a car park from where we had excellent views across Belfast Lough to Bangor. From here we watched a couple of large Stena Line ferries arrive and a large container ship pass on through the Irish Sea. The worst of the rain cleared enough for us to make out these views but the wind arrived as forecasted.

We headed north again, still following the A2 aka the Causeway Coastal route, enjoying the rural scenes across the narrow stretch of Larne Lough and discovering our error about the Ballylumford power station.

According to the weather forecast, Storm Helene is about to arrive with 70 mph winds tonight. West Wales will bear the brunt of it, but I am sure we will not miss out on the fun. I am just glad we have decided to relocate later than usual tomorrow, our Belfast camp not welcoming arrivals before 2 pm. Towing caravans and high force winds do not go hand in hand.








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