18 May 2016 - Norwich Club Site, Norfolk

 Although it did not rain through the night as suggested by the soothsayers, showers set in soon after rising and we were vindicated in choosing a day in the city as opposed to sightseeing further afield. This did mean however that we subjected ourselves to the elements, rather than observe them from the cosy confines of our Sorrento, but the decision was made. We set off on foot up the street as directed by one of our very friendly camp hosts, and discovered no “Something John’s Hill” opposite. Finally after some exploration, we found the correct street and intersection down the road to the left, not the right. It would seem that our host has the same problem with her left and rights as I do. We were still in time for the bus which did not arrive and then still did not arrive. Another No 39 came down a street adjacent and went on but not one to stop at our designated stop. 

Castle Keep

Eventually a kind local suggested we might have more luck standing with the other crowd up that same side street if we wanted to catch the bus into town. And so we duly did, after conversing at some length with some of our fellow  passengers. It seems the other end of Martineau Lane will continue to be blocked off for another four months, British rail unable to fix the tunnel bridge as simply as planned. They will apparently work for 72 hours straight on the August Bank holiday weekend and deal with it then. From this conversation we arrived at the following conclusions: (1) we would not be exiting the western end of Martineau Lane when we leave the day after tomorrow and (2) we will have to be aware of yet another “Bank Holiday” in August in considering booking and securing camping sites for ourselves.

Light filtered into Cathedral

Eventually we were successfully conveyed to the centre of Norwich to find a bustling vibrant town totally the reverse of that found over a year ago early one Sunday morning! We made our way to Norwich Castle, which exceeded our expectations. Chris had been there over forty years ago and had not been particularly impressed with the experience. I was adament we go, although had originally not realised that it was a return visit for Chris. When he saw the tariff, he was not at all happy, however after some adjustment of the price, helped by our English Heritage membership cards and the fact we are both over sixty, the entry fee became a little more palatable.

The castle dates from the twelfth century, a reminder of Norman power, but has spent most of its life as a prison, those years from 1220 through to 1887. The museum is truly wonderful, incorporating the Keep which we were first directed to. Alas, today there were several groups of very young school children touring the castle and their noisy enthusiam was rather distracting, but one should be glad that young minds are being exposed to such places.

The extension of the original castle to house the prisoners over the years is now home to a marvellous art gallery and museum. The Coleman Art Galleries display paintings by artists who exhibited with the Norwich Society of Artists, founded in 1803. Collectively known as the “Norwich School”, the artists quickly became regarded throughout Britain.

Norwich Cathedral

We finally tore ourselves away at half twelve and found a relatively dry and sheltered spot in the Castle gardens to eat our lunch, before pressing on through the charming streets to find the Cathedral. 

Like most such structures, the construction was spread over many years; started in 1096, sections being rebuilt after  being burned during riots in 1272, the nave roof embellished between 1465 and 1510. The spire was added at the end of the 15^th century. It’s topmost point is 315 feet above the ground; the highest land in Norfolk is only 329 feet above sea-level, and only Salisbury, among British cathedrals, is taller.

Unlike Salisbury Cathedral, the crowds were less and we were able to mosie around at leisure. Although we probably only spent half an hour here, it was well spent.

From there we walked back up to the Market Place, a massive orderly collection of pastel striped stalls. Here one can buy just about anything from Fish ‘n Chips to rope, camoflauge clothing, handbags, sox, dress lengths of material, skeins of yarn, books, shoes, handbags … the list is endless. Back in the shopping precinct, we found ourselves in the Coleman Mustard shop which also acts as a mini-museum. The Coleman story is quite amazing and the family should have received a medal for the philanthopic approach to business. 

Market Place

It is the attitudes to employment that caught my fancy, pioneering efforts in social welfare. In 1857 a school was opened for the employee’s children, while in 1864 the firm employed a nurse to help sick members of staff. These actions were revolutionary at the time.

We were very impressed with the Colman’s shop and the other shops all about, but not needing any further goods to fill our already rather full caravan, headed up the street to catch the bus home, a much less stress filled trip than that out.

Home a little earlier than other days, I offered to cook dinner, feeling a less exhausted than I have at the end of most sightseeing days. This travelling business is quite taxing!